Monday, 5 October 2015

3 October – Grants to Canyon de Chelly

Yeah – lots of trains last night…

Our first stop was the New Mexico Mining Museum. The museum was interesting, with the history of uranium mining in the area. Uranium was mined there from 1950s to the mid-70s. When the 3 mile island nuclear accident happened the bottom fell out of the market and mining stopped. Apparently though only one of the mining companies pulled out and all the others are sitting on their leases waiting for the market to recover enough to make it worth restarting operations. 


  After we had strolled around the museum, also seeing dinosaur bones that were recovered hundreds of feet underground during mining, we took the elevator down into a disused mine. After the mine was closed the museum building was constructed over the top.  It was a self-guided tour, with regular stations where we pushed a button to hear a narrated story about the equipment we were looking at.


We saw the trains that hauled the ore along the tunnels, the various drilling rigs and loading buckets, the vertical shafts that provided the enormous amount of ventilation required to counteract the radiation, the lunch room and machinery shop. It was so interesting to see the mine, preserved as if the crews had simply gone off the job and could walk back in any minute and start work again.


We drove out of Grants along The Ancient Way, heading west towards Arizona and our first stop was Bandera Volcano and Ice Cave. We did two self-guided walks, one to the edge of the Bandera crater and the other to the Ice Cave. The volcano is a cinder cone, and the eruptions in the area ceased about 10,000 years ago. The lava flow is very evident as fields of tumbled black pumice stone with very little vegetation and the cone itself is made almost entirely of small pumice stones. 


The track is well maintained, but we still had to be careful to stay well clear of the edges as once you got sliding on the slopes you wouldn’t stop! The crater was very steep and about 800 feet down. It is gradually filling in with erosion and rock slides.



The Ice Cave was interesting too. It is in a collapsed lava tube and the bottom of the cave is 20 feet thick with ice. The ice formed about 3400 years ago and the temperature in the cave is slightly below freezing all year round, so the ice continues to build up. Up until the 1940’s the ice was harvested, but is now naturally growing deeper again. We have seen an ice cave before, also in a collapsed lava tube, but that one was formed by the action of air being sucked through the cave and causing the freezing temperatures, whereas this one the cave mouth is open to the outside air and it is just a deep pocket of cold air that keeps the ice forming. The Pueblo people of the area called it the Winter Lake. It looks pretty unappealing now because of algae in the ice. 


Our next stop on the trip was El Morro – the Headland. The rocks jut out of the surrounding plains as a marker to the travellers over the ages. At the base of El Morro is a naturally occurring pool of water, which is the only water for 30 miles in every direction, so it was a natural campsite for the many travellers. As they rested, they carved their names in to the sandstone, so it became known as Inscription Rock. The earliest carvings are from the native people – petroglyphs of the local animals. 


In 1605, the first Governor of New Mexico, Don Juan de Onate, left a dated inscription on the rock, but it was not his first visit – he had passed their in 1598. The last Spanish inscription is dated 1774.



In 1848 a treaty ceded vast parts of Mexico to the United States, paving the way for the American travellers, who began to add their inscriptions from then on. In the 1930s the decision was made to erase any inscriptions dated after 1906, as they no longer represented the enormous challenges of travelling to El Morro and were considered simply graffiti.


Leaving El Morro, we continued west into Arizona, then turned north for a long drive to Canyon de Chelly. We drove along a mesa top for quite a distance with amazing valley views. We found out when we arrived that the valley is called Beautiful Valley. We concur.

We arrived late and checked into the State Park for 2 nights. 

No comments:

Post a Comment