Monday 25 June 2012

25 June – Elma to Seattle


Up and on the road early for Seattle and the pack up. We arrived at around 11 am and headed into the Brown Bear car wash to give the old girl a bath. It’s a bit of a job – she’s not a small beast. Then fuelled up and off to an RV park for all the fun jobs. Packing, vacuuming, cleaning, laundry etc.
Tomorrow it’s off to the storage place to park up, then a flight to LA. We are staying on Sunset Boulevard for the night for a relaxing last day before the flight home on Wednesday.

Sunday 24 June 2012

24 June – Port Angeles to Elma


We were woken in the morning by a crow on the roof of the RV. Tap, Tap, Tap, Craaaaaark. We got on the road around the Olympic Peninsula and headed to Forks (yes, MORE Twilight. Fans should stop reading now as we are about to burst the bubble…). The road wound past some really pretty lakes and through this amazing forest – tall evergreens with moss making green fairy floss on the branches. 


It is very wet here, around 10 feet of rain per year (about 2 metres). They have a very active logging industry, the forest was dotted with felled areas and replanted trees. According to the signs, they harvest each area every 50 years. The sun was shining (very unusually) so no vampires out today J.
Forks was a sleepy logging town (not much around) and milking the Twilight series for every single drop! The brochure we picked up on the ferry outlined the attractions, but some of them were total duds. Bella’s house and the Cullen’s house were not anything like the movie sets, just the owners had stuck up signs saying “Swan Residence” and “Cullens” on the letter box. We did however get a photo of the RV parked in a spot at the hospital “reserved for Dr Cullen”, a pic of the police station and a pic of the Forks High School sign. That was about it from the movie.



Everything else was tacky gift shops with signs like “Alice’s favourite store”. The local cafes were advertising “Bellasagne with Swan salad and EdBread” and “Jacob Java”. We saw deer in someone’s garden.
Undeterred, we went on to La Push beach and it was like the movie (finally). Very spectacular scenery and Steve spotted a bald eagle on a cliff. The beach obviously gets some wild storms, there was masses of driftwood piled up – huge trees – above the high tide line. There were some optimistic surfers paddling about in the 6 inch waves. LOL.


The rest of the peninsular was very pretty. The road followed the coastline round, til we peeled off and headed inland. We are on the leg back to Seattle, and pulled in at Elma for the night. The lovely lady on reception gave us a bag of home baked cookies when we checked in. Sweet.

23 June Vancouver Island to Port Angeles


We headed into Victoria and bought tickets for the 3pm ferry to Port Angeles (yes, the Port Angeles from Twilight…). We were allowed to park in the loading lanes because the previous sailing had left, so we had plenty of time to explore the docks area. Victoria is very much like Hobart – docks, restaurants and Victorian style weatherboard houses round the harbour. We had to be back at the RV at 1.30 for the immigration and customs checks.

There was a market going on at the waterfront, and we stopped to watch a female street entertainer and her stand up comedy routine. Steve got roped in to be an assistant with the show – it was very funny. She pulled four guys out of the audience and got them to hold props, hold a big bag that she got changed inside, and finally form a human pyramid for her to stand on to juggle flaming torches. She picked on Steve a lot, but he took it all in very good humour and played along with it. Some of the audience were asking Ros if he was an actor, and didn’t believe that we were innocent tourists! LOL.



After that, we pottered around the markets enjoying the sunshine until it was time to go back for our passport inspection and boarding.

 The trip across was good, a bit choppy, but the boat was very stable. We read books and looked out the window for the 90 minute crossing.
Arriving at Port Angeles and more customs! Then we parked up and did a quick walk along the main street to look at the locations from the Twilight series. We checked out the Lincoln Theatre, where Bella and friends go to the movies, Bella Italia, where Bella and Edward had dinner, and the Department store where Bella and her girlfriends went shopping for prom dresses. It was a bit of fun.


We then checked out an RV park, but it was hideous so we opted to park in the carpark at Safeways (Supermarket) for the night. How bogan are we? We redeemed ourselves slightly by doing some grocery shopping in there first. Wild salmon fillets for dinner. Yum.

Saturday 23 June 2012

22 June Vancouver Island


Steve got up early and went for a quick jog along the board walk.  On the way he met a couple walking along.  The gentleman had a pet Military Macaw on his shoulder wearing a little harness and a lead to stop it flying away.
The weather was quite overcast so decided not to do the whale watching trip, so instead we scooted into town to look over the Craigdarroch Castle.  

The castle was built between 1887 – 1890 for Robert Dunsmir (a Scottish immigrant who made his fortune from Vancouver Island coal) and his family.  Mr Dunsmir died in 1889 before it was completed and his entire estate (valued at $15-$20 Million) were left to his widowed wife.  When Mrs Dunsmir passed away the fortune was split up between the siblings, none apparently wanting to inherit the family mansion, so the castle was sold off at the auction via a lottery draw.  The new owner lost it to the banks and the castle then became the property of the local government and was used for various purposes (a war hospital & college to name a couple).  Finally in 1979 the castle was passed to a conservation society (in a very run-down state) who have since been restoring it and have run it as a historic museum.  The castle covers about 25,572 square feet and has 17 fireplaces, although there is a central heating system using water radiators.  It was very interesting to walk around and it was quite obvious that it was very opulent in its day.





After coming out of the castle we found that the weather had deteriorated to showers, but we went back into the city area and found a little boutique brewery and had a few tastings that were really quite nice.  This brewery (Phillips) employs a traditional method for takeaway beer.  They use ‘growlers’.  Yep…. You heard me right… ‘growlers’ (we had a fair ole snigger J).  You buy a reusable glass jug ($5) that they will fill for $10 and the jug holds the equivalent of about 4-5 stubbies.  The name comes from an old practice of patrons taking home beer in a metal tin with a lid.  On the walk home the gas from the beer escaping from the tin would make a growly noise hence the name.

We had a really nice sushi lunch & a Starbucks, then because it was raining steadily, we headed to the Royal British Columbia museum where it was warm and dry.  We spent a couple of hours wandering around looking at a photo display of Queen Elizabeth II, a display on dinosaurs and a display about the Canadian Aboriginals.  It was all very interesting.
The weather had not improved so we called it a day and got back to the RV, quite wet.

21 June Vancouver to Vancouver Island


Had a bit of asleep in this morning.  The car ferries (run by BC Ferries) run on the hour from Vancouver (Tsawwassen) to Vancouver Island (Swartz Bay).  We got to the ferry terminal just in time to see the 11am ferry leave, so we wandered into the ferry food-court area for some early lunch (at least we were first in line for the 12pm departure J).  The trip over took 90 minutes and was quite pretty as the ferry weaved through islands (with more finesse than an Italian cruise liner J) passing other ferries along the way.  The ferries are quite well decked out.  They have cafes, snack bars, business work stations, extra comfort areas (extra fee to sit in a more comfortable exclusive area), plus staterooms for those who need to have a nap for 90 minutes (?).  We docked at the other end with only a couple of minor bumps and we were off quite quickly.


Our first stop was a visitor info station to get some brochures on what was about etc. on Vancouver Isle.  We decided to go to the well known Butchart Gardens, on advice from Norm & Wendy.  The decision was well and truly worth it as the gardens were more than spectacular and words really do not adequately described the area and photos do not really do the place justice (but we certainly tried J).  The gardens cover a 22 hectare (55 acres) site that was formally a limestone quarry that supplied the nearby cement factory.  The gardens are product of Jennie Buchart’s life-long ambition to create a beautiful area out of the quarry.  The most impressive sections of the gardens are the sunken gardens and the rose garden.  Now we have a vision for our place LOL.





After enjoying ourselves at Buchart Gardens, we travelled onto Victoria (the island’s capital) and found ourselves an RV park right on the water front only a 5 minute scoot from the city.  Although we don’t quite overlook the bay (a couple of larger ‘A’ classes in the way) it’s really quite pretty.  There are these lovely little floating houses that are privately owned just nearby.  They are 3 stories high and some have sun/BBQ decks on top.  The seaplanes come overhead to land and take off from in front in the bay.

We went to a nearby cafĂ© and shared a seafood platter.  Afterwards we went for a walk along a boardwalk for a short distance.  Along the way we saw a sea otter that looked to be eating some sort of mussel from a shell.  On the way back (nearly in front of our van) we saw a fellow feeding some Canada Geese with a bunch of goslings.

Thursday 21 June 2012

20 June Whistler to Vancouver


Our first night since Banff without the lonely honking of trains in the middle of the night (I’m sure these buggers know that there are people sleeping nearby LOL).  We packed up and went closer to the register to access the internet.  While Ros sent our latest blog Steve set up the new SPOT. A little while ago we put out SPOT (this is a GPS locater device that sends our Google Map ref.) and seems like we forgot to bring it in (or someone swiped it…. not sure).  So we now have spot set up …yay!
We went into Whistler (the location of the 2010 Winter Olympic Games).  It is quite a nice place.  Sort of like an up-market version of Banff.  Loads of ski lifts/tows and ski runs.  As the day was quite nice we got tickets for the gondola ride to the top of Whistler and then the peak to peak gondola (from Whistler to Blackcomb).  The scenery on the way up was stunning and there was still quite a bit of snow at the top. 

The ride up the mountain was 25 minutes, so plenty of time to take in the view if the valley and the village of Whistler below. The peak to peak gondola stretches over a valley and has an unsupported span of 3.02Km.  The total ride length is about 4.4Km and the gondolas travel at about 7.5m/sec (they get along).  The views across the valley are amazing. 


More snow on the other side. Sadly, all the hiking trails were closed because of the snow, but we enjoyed a hot chocolate and the views instead.

We went back down into Whistler and walked for a little bit through town (stopping for a little bit of sushi for lunch).  Whistler is quite a picturesque town with lots of boutique shops ski hire/sales outlets, trees etc.  You could easily see how this place could be full of people in the Winter time.  

We noticed (on the gondola rides) that mountain biking is a huge thing here in the Summer time.  Bikes are loaded onto the lifts with riders and they race down the ski runs (and other tracks).
We posed for pics in the Olympic Rings, then made our way on to Vancouver.

Close to Vancouver the road followed the river edge, high up on bridge supports on the side of cliff faces with great views over the bay.  We battled late afternoon traffic and road works and with the help of our dear friend Lucy (the nav sat) we arrived at BC RV resort in Burnaby, Vancouver.

Wednesday 20 June 2012

19 June Kamloops to Whistler


The RV campsite was right next door to the British Columbia Wildlife Park. It’s a volunteer rescue zoo that either rehabilitates animals and returns them to the wild, or keeps them if they are unable to go back. So we headed in there for a look around. They had two orphan grizzly bear cubs – really fun to watch. They were tearing around chasing each other and play fighting like a pair of puppies. One of them got in the bath and did his yoga – he was grabbing his back paws with his front paws and stretching his legs up in the air so he was balanced on his bum (yes, there is such a yoga pose). Then he would lose his balance and fall over backwards or sideways into the water. We confirmed that, yes, we have seen a grizzly in the wild. Still bummed we didn’t get a decent picture.



There were also wolves, badgers, a lynx, and racoons. We saw elks again, and this time they were talking – they make a really weird “yo” “yo” kind of call in a high pitched voice. There were twin baby moose and a solitary mountain goat. They had a birds of prey exhibit, with bald eagles, different kinds of owls and a vulture. He was pretty gross. Apparently when you threaten a vulture it throws up in the hope of disgusting the predator so much that it goes away – that would work. They also pee on their own feet to get rid of blood and guts and bugs from the road kill they eat. So, not on our list of “must see in the wild” animals.





There were lots of kiddies running around on school trips. Funny that most of them were so busy playing on the swings that they weren’t that interested in the animals.
We left Kamloops at lunchtime headed for Whistler. On the way we passed through the historic Hat Creek station – it was the main staging area on the road west. To start with the scenery was very arid – rolling hills covered in silver sage brush and only green on the river flats. We passed a lake that had a house on an island in the middle – pretty cool, and not long after another black bear grazing on dandelions near the road. Black bears are everywhere at this time of year.
As we travelled into the mountains we were following a river. As we climbed the river gorge got deeper, with sheer cliffs, a bit of flat land, then cliffs again. Every bit of flat land was farmed, but with no fencing – we had visions of cows and horses falling off the edge. Most of the area was under crops of some kind, with water obviously pumped from the river hundreds of feet below – seriously big pumps!
We passed under a railway bridge, but it was a single lane tunnel and went sharp 90 degree angle left, under the bridge, then sharp 90 degrees again to the right. There were steep walls on either side and it was a squeeze for the old bus. Not long after, we passed a truck with a trailer going the other way and wondered how on earth he was going to manage it??
Going down over the range we passed several Indian reservations. On one hill we went past 5 people, each standing on the side of the road holding a stick with feathers tied to the end. The people were evenly spaced, about 1km apart. We wonder if they were performing a ceremony?
After we passed through the town of Lillooet, we were back in the amazing Canadian mountains again. Rivers, trees, snow-capped mountains and wild roses and lupins growing by the roadside. There were huge dandelion puff balls, about the size of an orange. We passed a lake that had a massive log jam in it.


Coming into Whistler was interesting. Once we passed the turnoff to the local airport immediately the roads got better, the houses much tidier (and bigger). It was like crossing a border into a new country.
The Whistler RV park is lovely – all landscaped and white gravel paths. We backed over a small tree parking up (shhhh). It straightened up ok. We took a partially serviced site to keep the costs down so we are way over the back away from all the action. Its very peaceful.

Monday 18 June 2012

18 June – Jasper to Kamloops


Headed out of Jasper for the long drive West. On the highway we saw a mum black bear and cub down an embankment and a big grizzly on the side of the road. Because we were travelling at 100ks, by the time Steve pulled up the big bus and backed it up to where he was, he bolted into the bush before Ros could get a photo. So bummed! Steve’s dad says it doesn’t count without photographic evidence! About 10 mins later we saw another black bear.
We headed down the Rockies and into the hills below. 

The forests here are very pretty, a mix of deciduous and evergreen trees, in all different shades of green you can imagine. 

We followed a river all the way to Kamloops, it was in flood and there were massive rapids and we saw a house with the shed and car well flooded with water.
It was Canadian National Bad Drivers Day. We got run off the road by a truck overtaking and running out of room before the oncoming car got to him – no harm done, lucky there was a wide shoulder. Even though the speed limit is 100k, and we were doing 105k, we got overtaken by cars and trucks, mainly on crests and blind corners. It was bizarre – there would be a long straight with good visibility and the following vehicle would sit behind us until the straight ran out, then go!
Into Kamloops – very dry and deserty. They proclaim themselves “the tournament capital of Canada”.  

17 June – Jasper


We had a nice lie in in the morning and a lazy breakfast. It had rained a fair bit in the night, but the sun was shining and looking like a nice day. We scooted up Whistler Mountain to the Jasper Aerial Tramway. We took the tramway up the mountain – its an amazing view from the cable car, soaring up the side of the mountain. We disembarked at the top deck and hiked to the summit of the mountain. It was still snowy at the top, and about 9 - 10 degrees colder than at the bottom. We were glad we took our mountain gear, beanies and ski gloves were welcome! The hike was quite strenuous, and we felt the altitude. The top of the mountain is 2473 meters, and going up its quite taxing on the lungs, Lots of stops to catch our breath. At the top, it felt like the top of the world! Views forever!


We sat up and looked at the views until it started to sleet, so we headed back to the tramway for a hot cuppa and some views from a more civilised spot (saw a chipmunk and a pika on the way). Then we took the tram back down and scooted back to the RV.
While we were eating lunch a female elk walked past the window. We dropped everything and bolted outside for a look and some photos. She happily wandered around eating and ignored us. We received a brochure when we arrived at the camp, telling us that the female elks come into the campground to calve, because the big predators stay away from people. Pretty smart.

We headed into Jasper for a potter around. On the way we saw the main elk herd grazing in the forest. We saw a calf, but couldn’t get any decent pictures because of all the trees and the poor light. We saw him / her stand up and stretch, then lie back down. Cute!


Jasper is like a tired version of Banff. So not a lot to look at. We pottered around the shops for a bit, then back to the RV to blog. We are hoping to get to an internet café soon.